Day 26 – Norfolk, NE

Day 26 – Denison, IA to Norfolk, NE

116 miles

Well the problems continue to mount and this time it was my iPod and iPhone which for some bizarre reason seemed to now have a mind of their own, they are continuously skipping songs and pausing. The hills to start the journey were horrendous, I knew today though that I was leaving the state of Iowa and making a fresh start in the state of Nebraska. Looking back on my time in Iowa, although I haven’t really enjoyed it, the views and landscape have been nothing short of stunning. Better though next time to be sitting in an air conditioned car moving over the hills with ease and not on a bicycle!!

 

I stopped for lunch in Onawa, settled down for lunch when a woman comes over to ask me if I am the guy from the news! Now I have been asked this question about 10 times on this trip and some people don’t believe me when I say no. At one point earlier on in the trip, I actually thought there was a film crew filming me without me knowing and that is why people weren’t convinced when I told them no.

It was 2 pm when I finished lunch and I had originally had no intention of making it to Norfolk but thought a lie in tomorrow would be nice and a morning off the saddle, it was 70 miles and Nebraska was completely flat, right? Wrong, no it is not!

 

The first 20 miles were just like Iowa, rolling hill after rolling hill and they were steeper, so steep that with my chain and flat tyre I couldn’t get over some of the hills. So I would have to walk up and freeride down. There was a point when I considered hitch-hiking to the next town to get the problem fixed because it just wasn’t fun. But I couldn’t justify it to myself, knocking off 40 miles to the next town until the chain was completely broken. So I just kept doing the same thing over each hill, the heat was in the hundreds again compounding my misery. At 5 pm I collapsed under a tree and couldn’t remember how I got there when I woke up. The worst was over, though I made it to a town 26 miles from Norfolk at 8 pm. I grabbed a sandwich and sat in the shade eating it while I starred at a motel 10 metres away, very tempting but I was determined to make Norfolk tonight. I sprayed WD40 on the chain and headed for Norfolk, the night drew in very quickly and for the most part I was on the highway in complete darkness. I reached my motel at 10.30 and relaxed safe in the knowledge I was taking the morning off to go and get my bike fixed tomorrow.

Day 25 – Denison, IA

Day 25 – Perry, IA to Denison, IA

80 miles

Well the day didn’t get off to the best start as I lost the trail thanks to no internet almost immediately; it wasn’t the biggest problem though as it was quite easy to navigate north, south, east and West with the roads very nicely gridded. I found the trail almost at the end when I hit the town of Jefferson for breakfast. Throughout my time in Iowa I had been asked more times then I have had hot dinners if I am doing Ragbrai, what’s that you ask? Well it is according to one man I spoke to, the biggest event that happens in Iowa, a bit like the Olympics in London I guess for Iowa. It’s when thousands of cyclists go from west to east and stop from town to town for a massive piss up, as well as thousands more who follow for the evening events. Sadly I am going to be missing it, but if I was given a dollar for every time someone asked me if I was doing Ragbrai, lets just say I would be treating myself to the Hilton every night from now on!

While walking out I bumped into a man called John (Great name), who asked me what I was doing and insisted on a meal on him, this was incredibly kind as I only had a brief encounter with him, so I was really surprised.

 

I have started to have problems with my chain as it kept seizing up, making it incredibly difficult to ride. I thought the town of Carroll might have a bike store, but the nearest one from there was 150 miles away, just what I wanted to hear!! I relaxed for the afternoon in a coffee shop reading the comments people had left on my blog and having a little chuckle here and there while sipping away on iced tea. Came out at about 5pm to notice a flat tyre! Having to mend it in the middle of the street stirred up quite a crowd, intrigued to find out if I was doing Ragbrai!!!!!

I cycled through for about 30 miles to Denison with a stiff chain and half a flat tyre, the problems were beginning to mount and I have another 120 odd miles before I can get them sorted.

Day 24 – Perry, IA

Day 24 – Marshalltown, IA to Perry, IA

92 miles

Today I was up at sunrise, getting away quickly. I felt good, I had made 25 miles before I stopped into a town to have breakfast, only to find that Casey’s gas station was the only place that does food! I settled for doughnuts, cookies and a banana, not the healthy breakfast I was imagining earlier but it filled me up.

  

I reached Ames by lunch time, although I didn’t quite realise how big the city was, so it was slow going through it. I decided to catch a bite and chill out at a sandwich bar. While I was there, one of the workers, a cycling enthusiast, told me about this stunning bridge on the trail and convinced me to head down there. Once again the afternoon heat was getting the best of me and I was close to tipping point. It is so hard to understand how frustrating the heat is here and how much it holds you back. So far this trip there have been maybe 2 days when the temperature hasn’t been high 90’s or early 100’s. There was a point when I nearly broke, but I controlled myself and hit the town of Slater. I decided to have a sleep under a tree before carrying on and after waking up in a pool of sweat on my mattress I got going again. This much-anticipated bridge was definitely worth heading down for though, it lay a hundred foot off the river and views out towards the forest for miles around. It was stunning. The bridge itself was striking too, architecturally designed to create interest while you move across the bridge.

 

I stopped in the next town for a bite to eat. When I saw four pieces of chicken on the menu, I thought a bit of protein wouldn’t go a miss. I was a little naïve to think it might be healthy as it was heavily deep fat fried but still went down well. I cycled into the next town and got a little lost along the way as my app had broken down again, so I had no route planned or where I was going, so had to keep asking people for directions. I cycled on till dark and pitched my tent on the side of the trail a couple of miles from a village called Dawson. It was still around 90 degrees and trying to cool down in that heat was hard. I just had to lie in my tent sweating till I went to sleep.

Day 23 – Marshalltown, IA

Day 23 – Cedar Rapids, IA to Marshalltown, IA

70 miles

Knowing that I had only 70 odd miles to do today, I did a bit of work after breakfast and didn’t leave the inn till about 11 am, thinking I could make up the miles easily later on. I have, to be honest, I wasn’t in the best mood today. I really wasn’t enjoying the hills of Iowa after been told of how flat it would be. One person in Ohio had said, “If you stand on a tuna can, you can see the back of your head, that’s how flat it is”. Clearly, he has never been to this state before because it is hill after hill after hill.

After leaving the Inn, I followed my route that put me on gravelled roads. After 20 miles I had had enough, it was slow and hard work for very little reward, if any. I headed back onto the highway and earmarked a town 40 miles away for lunch. However, there was no restaurant in this town when I arrived, only a gas station. So I had to settle for a small sandwich and a snack, before heading back out into the sauna, that is, outside.

 

The problem I was finding is that I have to stop every 3 – 5 miles when I cycle in the afternoon and I was getting exhausted. I am currently getting through 8 – 10 litres every day and some days more. It is fair to say I was hating Iowa so far, maybe it was the heat, maybe it was the hills but whatever it was I was certainly not enjoying it. It did change a bit when I stopped under a tree to grab some much-needed shade at some random farm and a lady walked out with a bottle of water, this small act of kindness did cheer me up a bit.

 

Today again had not been a good day and I ended the night sleeping in a soybean field just off the highway. I had had enough of cycling in the heat so I was going to get up early tomorrow to get the miles in and hopefully have a better day.

Thank you to everyone for their messages of support, it is much appreciated.

Day 22 – Cedar Rapids, IA

Day 22 – Walcott, IA to Cedar Rapids, IA

77 miles

Well, I would love to say what a fantastic day I had, but sometimes you just get your head down and cycle, so there was not much to report home about. I left the Inn in a rush leaving my wet pants and socks still hanging in my room! Although clean I did feel sorry for the poor maid who would have to pick those things up! Then after leaving I somehow got on the wrong road and headed south. I did think it was odd that after 15 miles, the sign for the comfort inn was still very apparent in the distance, that’s when I knew something was wrong.

I ended up in a small town for lunch, hungry and thirsty. I settled for the first place I saw, Big Error!! They produced a horrible burger which was close to not been edible, so ended up in the main centre of the town to see if I could get something more substantial.

After lunch, I hit the road, except it was quite a busy road with no hard shoulder to go on. When lorries start stalling on the highway behind you, you should maybe think about getting off that road because you are quite a hazard. However, I chose to stay on and rode all the way to Cedar Rapids. I made no friends, a woman followed me off the highway into a gas station and told me how she nearly crashed into me but swerved just in time. I was not sure whether to thank her or to say sorry, so just went with both to make life easier.

I was going to camp for the night but decided as I was in a city it would be best to avoid it, so set myself up in an Inn for the night. Hopefully, tomorrow will be better.

 

Day 21 – Walcott, IA

Day 21 – Wyanet, IL to Walcott, IA

75 miles

I was up early, woken to the mist hanging over the river, looking very scenic. I was told at breakfast that I was on one of the most beautiful trails in the country. So I was quite looking forward to heading to Davenport. The problem was that sometimes the trail just decided to stop because the path had caved in and collapsed. Luckily though there was always a way around it. Now when I arrived in America, I got a pay as you go sim card from T-Mobile with unlimited data and unlimited international calls, however, what they didn’t tell me was that as soon as you get out of the cities and into the mid west, you don’t anymore!! So quite difficult when you are relying on the internet to get you from place to place and across the country. So when I reached the suburbs of Davenport I lost my route and had to guess my way into the city. Finally, after a bit of trouble, I reached Davenport, with the Mississippi River and Iowa State. It was Sunday and of course, nothing was open. I managed to find somewhere eventually though and feasted on a good old American burger. After a little rest, I headed back onto the road afterwards to make up the miles.

 

After sleeping on the trail the night before I decided to put myself up for the night in the Comfort Inn again. This one though was terrible, so expensive and place on a busy freeway. Just awful.

 

 

Day 20 – Wyanet, IL

Meeting people cycling

Day 20 – Morris, IL to Wyanet, IL

75 miles 

The night before there was talk of a 6.30am bike ride. I thought there would be no chance of that after they had stayed up till the early morning, however, they were ready to go and before me! We cycled back onto the trail and after about 6 miles we said our goodbyes as I think they had to get back. I thought this could be a good day to pick up the miles, but the trail was damp and my bike was sinking into the mud making it hard to pick up the pace. I stopped for lunch in La Salle, at an uptown grill. This place had been raved about all over the area as the place to eat. Even Kid Rock ate there the night before or something like that. It was a pretty fine lunch nonetheless.

   

I got back on the trail only to find it ended 2 miles down from La Salle and I had to backtrack and head onto the road. I was so annoyed that I had wasted 4 miles I decided to have an afternoon snooze under a tree. It was another 100degree plus day and I had no plans on hitting the road quite yet in that heat.

 

I headed on, trying to make up a bit of time to Princeton (no I am not back in New Jersey). I headed into a tavern and was lucky as it was supposedly the best one in town, if not the only one in town! While I was there I got chatting to the couple next to me. I really am the odd one out in these places, rocking in with skimpy shorts and a tight top! People are always intrigued to know why someone would wear such a ridiculous outfit for supper. I told them about my journey and they told me about a play going on in town which their daughter was in and wondered if I wanted to go and see it. I politely declined as I was keen to get a few more miles done before nightfall. They left for the play and I finished my supper. When it came to paying, however, I was told that the bill was taken care of. I looked round to see who could have paid, but I didn’t see anyone. The couple who I was chatting to had left and paid for me without me knowing and I didn’t get the chance to thank them. Just another amazing show of generosity from the American people.

 

I cycled into the next town and got on the trail before calling time, as it was pitch black and I couldn’t go on. I set up for the night next to a river and was out like a light.

 

Day 19 – Morris, IL

me in Chicago

Day 19 Chicago, IL to Morris, IL

70 Miles

I decided to get out early to make up the miles. I said goodbye to Victor before heading off, out of Chicago.

 

I would say if I haven’t already that I am now in a pretty good rhythm while I am cycling. Meeting fellow cyclists as I pass them always makes the journey more pleasant and interesting. I now always greet them with a, “Hi there” followed by a “Hello” if there is a second person. I think the motorcyclist and I have a little thing going on too, as when we pass we always give a slight nod of the head, I have yet to meet the Hell’s Angels biker though!!

  

I hit the trail about 30 miles out that took me all the way to Joliet for lunch, a good sandwich and a complimentary chilli mince from the waitress went down a treat. I seemed to hit lunch at the perfect time as when I went through the doors the heavens opened and it rained down for about half an hour.

 

The evening was drawing in and I thought I would take an early supper in the town of Morris, just off the trail, before getting another 20 odd miles and pitching my tent on the trail. However, after a quick supper there, I was getting ready to leave when a group of adults started chatting to me about my trip. After a quick chat, they asked me if I would like to join them for a glass of wine, After been reluctant to start with I eventually accepted their kind offer. They took me into Montage, an elegant wine bar in the centre of town. This town was full of some of the nicest people, the group I was with were really chatty, a little boozed up but generally, great fun to be with. I got to know them and each one of them offered me a place to stay, so I had plenty of choices! I accepted the Applegate’s family offer of a bed and ventured back to theirs for a shower. I did find it a little awkward when I had showered and had nothing to wear afterwards, and had to go down to say goodnight in a tiny towel!! They asked me to stay up with them but I was shattered and couldn’t keep my eyes open any longer. Maybe the wine had gone to my head but the second I hit the pillow I was out. It turned out that Friday the 13th was a very lucky day for me in the end!!

 

Day 18 – Chicago, IL

Chicago US

Day 18 – Chicago, IL

Well, another day off the saddle and I was going to make the most of it. I thought this would be the perfect day to venture out and get a taste of Chicago. I relaxed at Victor’s house until about midday watch TV and venturing into the world of American politics! I then headed into downtown Chicago via the subway. Chicago is not too dissimilar to New York; there is a great atmosphere about the place and you can feel a little dwarfed at times by the sheer heights of the buildings, the architecture is stunning as well as the parks.

 

The first stop was a food market in what seemed like the financial district of Chicago. I dived straight into the food, sampling away at all the freebies before settling on lamb and spinach pie to start my lunch off. I also stumbled across the Millennium Park, a wonderful example of a contemporary City Landscape, with many different spaces to hide away from the fast paced city. I settled down for my second lunch but let’s say that this wasn’t quite up to scratch and the chef should be purchasing a hair net soon! I relaxed in a coffee shop to catch up on a bit of admin and look at my route out of Chicago.

 

I headed back to Victor’s house and managed to find my way back without any hiccups or turning into the wrong neighborhood’s !! We went out for supper at a great place just down the road from his. He had been claiming that they did the best fish tacos and that it was such good value it was like stealing! But he was right, they were superb, and I finished the night with a nice big ice cream to pile on the calories for the ride tomorrow! Chicago has been fantastic and a huge thank you to Victor for his hospitality and for my stay in Chicago, I can’t recommend the place enough.

Chicago US

Day 17 – Chicago, IL

Chicago Beach

Day 17 – LaPoste, IN to Chicago, IL

86 miles

I left early as I wanted to get to Chicago by the late afternoon, Victor who I had met earlier in Frostburg had very kindly offered me a place at his apartment whilst I was there in Chicago, so I decided to take him up on his offer. At the halfway point, I was doing well, it was 40 miles in by lunch, so only 40 more miles to go. After lunch, though I was feeling a little tired so decided to go for a quick snooze under a tree to avoid the afternoon sun, but that didn’t seem to do the trick. My knee joint on my left leg was killing me and so the afternoon was slow going.

 

I made the waterfront by 6 pm; I typed in Victor’s street name and headed to his place, the GPS said it was about 2 miles from downtown. However, when I thought I was close I was cycling through boarded up houses and flats and continuously having to cycle over broken glass. I thought it was quite a dodgy area for someone with two young girls to live! I decided to call Victor as I was convinced I was in the wrong area however as I went to call him my battery went completely dead. I was definitely in the wrong neighbourhood and I needed to get out quickly. I continued cycling when a guy sitting on a porch with a massive group shouted at me to “Come over here now!,” I looked at him and on the rare occasion decided it might be best to carry on and cycle. As I cycled on I heard him shout to a group of his boyz to “Go get him,” at this point, I guess you could say I decided to pick up the pace quite a bit and try and find the nearest main road where I thought I might be safe. When I saw a policeman I rushed over, feeling a little safer and asked where the address Victor had given me, he pointed me a couple of miles down a road; I finally arrived at Victor’s place, quite different to where I had just been and what a relief. It turned out I was in the heart of the Chicago Ghetto, where the riots kicked off a few years ago and a guy was murdered one street away from where I was just last week. It would seem I was quite lucky to get out in one piece. Victor and I chilled out for the night and watched the sporting awards before calling it a night. Tomorrow I get a chance to explore Chicago and the wonders of the place.

 

Day 16 – LaPoste, IN

Amish Country

Day 16 – LaGrange, IN to LaPoste, IN

81  miles

I had every intention of getting going early but somehow ended up hanging about faffing around. When I did get going I thought a big breakfast would be better so it was not until about 11 am when I set off.

Once again I hit Amish country roads that slowed me right down. I ended up missing lunch and instead went to a petrol station and consumed a slush puppy, not quite the same but on a hot day quite refreshing. I have to say that cycling along at the time, you do feel for the postman. I have never encountered hostility from dogs before, but there is something about a bike that a dog just hates and really goes for it! They can hear you from way off and you really have to pick up the pace to escape them.

I hit the town of La Porte, like all these places I had no idea what they are like or what there is good to do there. But a restaurant on the way seemed a perfect place to start, as I was famished after missing lunch. I always try to pick independent places, not much good comes from the chain restaurants such as McDonald’s as you never meet people, whereas these independent restaurants are usually full of charming locals who give an accurate idea of what the place is like. This place was no different, people around the place came over to chat to me and asked what I was doing. A lovely woman put me to shame saying she used to do 50 miles a day when she was younger, I find that pretty tough most days!! When she went to leave she insisted I had supper paid for by her. Just amazing people in America, doing such selfless acts and expecting nothing in return.

 

I headed up the town about 6 miles and found an Inn on the road, not a bad little place, a lakefront view and a Jacuzzi in the room all for the same price as the other cheap Inns. Perfect end for the day!

Day 15 – LaGrange, IN

cycling-tips

Day 15 – Wasseau, OH to LaGrange, IN

80 miles

I got early and cycled to the next town, West Unity. Sitting munching away on a stack of pancakes and Ohio maple syrup, I got chatting to the locals about my trip. They warned me about what to expect further on through Indiana. When saying goodbye they chucked me a few postcards to remember the town and wishes me luck.

  

I must have gone about 10 miles and then all of a sudden, I felt like had ventured back in time a hundred years. The smooth tarmac road had turned to a heavy mud track and the pickup trucks that raced past me at a ferocious speed were now horse and carriages, where was I? Was I deep in Amish Country? Struggling through the thick mud tracks and nearly tumbling at every corner, I eventually made it through to the town of Hamilton for lunch. I had crossed a state and I did not even know it. After lunch and a long afternoon snooze, I decided to head to the next town for supper, only that the next town was 40 miles away. I was on uninhabited roads for miles with not much to see, other than corn and soybean fields, I tried to think of each one as different and try and make something interesting out of the fields but it was proving futile, it was quite dull most of the way.

I finally made it to the town of Lagrange, upon arrival I was a little unsure about the place, everything seemed to be closed except McDonald’s and the noisy bar across town. I decided on the bar and grabbed some fish and chips when it came to the bill though I was told it was taken care of. I hadn’t spoken to anyone and someone had picked up my bill! I was told it was a chap at the bar called Deano. I went up and thanked hi, saying it was so kind of him. He told me he was a biking enthusiast and had done similar things before. After a quick chat, I headed off. I had been tempted to carry on cycling after supper to make up the miles but ended up checking myself into a rather insalubrious motel. After two nights in a tent, I need a bed and anything with a shower was paradise!

 

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