Cycling America – Page 4 – Ziba Adventures

Day 14 – Wasseau, OH

Day 14 – Clyde, OH to Wasseau, OH

87 miles

I have had some pretty bad mornings in the past but this was definitely up there, the trains got going again at 5 am and the usual sounding of the horn commenced too. It was similar to someone in the seat behind you pressing it up against your ear. When I finally got up I had the worst headache. I decided this would be the perfect time to test out some of my camping cooking equipment, so I rustled up some oatmeal (Porridge) for breakfast. Without sugar at hand I mixed it with some peanut butter, it went down ok but there is a reason why it is not a familiar combination.

I got going and a quick breakfast in the next town and a bit of a watch of the Wimbledon Final to see Murray lose the Murray lose the second set. I cycled through the trail till I reached the town of Perrysburg and for some bizarre reason everything was closed, I was getting hungry and out of desperation for something to eat I stop at a van in the park to order some horrendous nachos and ice cream, a wonderful combo indeed. There I met a guy called Tim, I wasn’t sure whether he could just see the state of me or just smell me but he very kindly offered me a shower at his place, a couple of miles down the road. I couldn’t resist and headed down to Yoderville, a population of 7! There he welcomed me into his home and I met his family. After a much-needed shower, I relaxed a bit, then after a couple of hours I thought I should get a few more miles under my belt but then his wife goes into the fridge as I am clipping into my pedals and takes out a whole chicken and some lovely looking vegetables. Feeling a little starved this was another kind offer I couldn’t refuse. After meeting more of the family as stacking up with all sorts that they had given me, I finally got going. I managed to get about 30 miles before dark and set up my tent on the playing fields in Waasau, legal or not, I wasn’t sure, but no one bothered me. Thank you, everyone, for your kind words and support so far.

Day 13 – Clyde, OH

Day 13 – Richfield, OH to Clyde, OH

83 miles

After a fine breakfast of fresh fruit from the girls, I said my goodbyes reluctantly as they kept tempting me with offers of a swim and even a ride up to Canada! Mackenzie claimed that would be a much better option than my route through Ohio and Indiana. I got going and after a few steep hills to start with the topography began to even out. After about 25 miles a person in a Ford pickup truck flagged me down, having read blogs about cycling, I knew this wasn’t good and it usually meant that they were quite annoyed at you hogging the road and they want to let you know exactly what they think of you. So I braced myself for a barrage of abuse, but to my surprise, he got out with a bottle of water and told me that I was going to need it more than him today as the forecast was predicted to hit 107 degrees.

Now cycling 80 miles, give or take a day, you burn around 6000 calories, depending on certain factors. In America there is a pastry that contains 1000 calories called a bear claw and I was yet to find it, but when I hit the town of Wellington and stopped for lunch in a nice corner cafe, there it was with raspberry jam in it, screaming at me, I was tempted by two but thought one would be enough! You can never be short of calories in America……

I cycled on through and after a quick dinner, I continued on the trail until nightfall. I found a spot on the trail that I thought would be fine to set up the tent for the night about three miles out from Clyde. What I only realised once I had set up was that this was the spot where the trains sound their horn to warn the town of their arrival and my word it was loud!! These horns can be heard from miles away and I was sleeping right next to where they sound their horn, at least I didn’t have any excuse for getting up late because of no alarm call!!!!

Day 12 – Richfield, OH

Day 12 – Columbiana OH to Richfield, OH

73 miles

Strolling out of my tent early in the morning I debated whether or not to go back to the Dutch House for breakfast. In the end, I decided against it as I wanted to get a couple of miles under my belt before breakfast. Again it was an incredible day in terms of weather and I am sure I am in for another hot one as the temperature is relentless. I was in Canfield and grabbed a big breakfast sandwich at Darrs Cafe. I got chatting to the couple next to me, The Palmers, a nice couple from down the road. I was telling them of my journey through America so far. As they got up to leave and say goodbye, the owner of the cafe told me that they had picked up the bill for me! I couldn’t believe it, I was speechless and somewhat awkwardly saying goodbye. Leaving the cafe I rode on through thinking about the kindness and generosity of the American people so far. Along the way stopped off at an English pub, didn’t resemble anything like a British Pub but down myself with some much-needed fluids.

The heat continued throughout the afternoon, again hitting a hundred plus Fahrenheit. I cycled through a lovely national park along the way providing me with so much needed shelter from the sun and some rolling hills to climb as the topography had become a little flatter since hitting Ohio. It was getting to the evening when I was around a place called Richfield, as I saw a woman picking weeds from her lawn. I asked where a good place to grab some food might be. She told me of this great place just up the road, here I was expecting another Hancock moment, but to my delight, The Clearview Inn was a treat, good food at a decent price. So a quality Sirloin Steak it was! The breakfast places I had been going to had been nice but I had struggled to find a place that did good quality food, finally, I had found one.

I asked the waitress what was ten miles down the road and whether she thought a farmer would mind me pitching a tent in his field, she said said she had no idea but would go and find out, when she returned she told me to come outside with her, I was expecting her to say “Go down there turn right etc”, but instead she introduced me to this large family having drinks. Mike the father, very kindly offered me a place on their lawn as long as I didn’t mind their dogs and that I sat and had a few drinks with them. I was a little shy about getting so close to them as I hadn’t showered from the night before and I thought the smell after another long hot day must be pretty bad by now. Things didn’t start well when the first question they asked me was ‘When was the last time you showered?’

I sat and got to know them a little better and told them of my encounters throughout my trip, we had a few drinks and headed back, the girls offered me a room in the house and a shower which was a little too good to be true and of course I didn’t turn it down.

We stayed up a little longer before calling it a night, I imagine in the morning they might wake up thinking, ‘Did we bring back some homeless guy from England last night’

Day 11 – Columbiana, OH

Day 11 – Pittsburgh, PA to Columbiana, OH

62 miles

After ten days the plastic clip on for my cleats had worn away and become completely useless. I had to go in search of a bike store and stock up for the journey ahead. I went in search of a bike store but ended up coming to a Museum! (Thanks Google for that!!) To cut an incredibly long story short the whole search was a waste of time and I ended up leaving Pittsburgh in the late morning and cycling through the early afternoon in the sun to make up for lost time.

It really wasn’t the best day as I was competing for the road with lorries and cars throughout the day and the heat was showing no sign of abating. I had made around 60 miles when I hit Columbiana and was now out of Pennsylvania and in Ohio. I made a quick stop to pick up some insect repellent after I had more than enough in the Pennsylvanian forests! Then stumbled across the Dutch House which was an all you can eat buffet, excellent when you need to pile on the calories.

Now in doing research for this trip, I was told that when you need a place to put up your tent, you can go and ask a farmer if you can put it up in his field, stating that you will be gone by the morning and leaving it in the same state you found it. I was yet to try this out so thought tonight could be the perfect opportunity. I went a further few miles down the road and knock on what looked like a farmers house to see if this would work. However, the old lady who answered it did not seem too keen to let me anywhere near her house so sent me to her daughter’s house instead, only across the road (literally). The place was situated nicely in between two busy roads so as one can imagine tonight get some sleep is going to be interesting!

Day 10 – Pittsburgh, PA

Day 10 Pittsburgh, PA

Today was the first day off the saddle and my word, did I make the most of it. I stayed in bed till about midday before getting up and doing some bike maintenance, three days in the woods had taken a bit of a toll on my bike which had now become a little muddy and a little dilapidated, and not to mention the state of my clothes too! I headed into to Pittsburgh in the afternoon to see what delights it had to offer.

I was told of how Pittsburgh puts on a special event for the 4^th July, and how much fun this Regatta was. Having watched the Regatta at Henley on the Thames, I was imagining people rowing down the river in a tranquil and peaceful spectacle, people getting sloshed on Pimms would probably barely notice the boats. However, in America, Regatta means a whole new thing. We were welcomed to start with by The super riches Super Yachts being a parade down the river followed by an adrenaline-fueled powerboat race for twenty minutes, this was then followed by an elaborate fireworks display unlike one I rarely see back in Britain. Having grown up in the Countryside, fireworks night was usually one person running from one firework to the other while we watch patiently in the freezing cold. This tonight was a whole different ball game. I chatted to the locals after and went for a few drinks in the bars. A fantastic evening in Pittsburgh and cannot wait for what America throws at me next.

Day 9 – Pittsburgh, PA

Day 9 Boston, PA to Pittsburgh, PA

It took me a little longer than I had hoped but after half a dozen falls, a dozen bruises, one puncture and more bites then I have ever encountered I finally arrived at my first checkpoint, Pittsburgh, the home of Andy Warhol, Heinz and The Steelers. I am physically and mentally exhausted and looking forward to taking a day’s break from the saddle here. Just by coincidence, my day off happened to be the 4^th July, Independence day, so I can look forward to a fireworks display tomorrow night.

I explored the city and looked at where I needed to get to in order to find my motel. Another 8 miles out of town! I wasn’t keen to go any more miles so I tried to find one a little closer. I grabbed some lunch from Bar Louie on the waterfront and searched for a motel close by. One of the waiters showed me an app that finds close by places and prices, he even offered me a place in his house for the night. I was really keen but I had been in the woods for three nights and needed a deep clean; my white shirt had turned a brownish red colour and my socks, well I won’t go into too much detail about them, but let just say they didn’t look or smell too great! So I politely declined but took his number anyway.

I eventually found a motel a couple of miles away and settled there for the night. I didn’t venture into the city as I initially planned, thinking I would rest up and save a big night for tomorrow.

Day 8 – Boston, PA

Day 8 Frostburg, MD to Boston, PA

I headed off as soon as I woke up after Victor recommended not bothering waiting around for breakfast. I decided to get 15 miles under my belt before I ate. I arrived at a quaint little village on the trail called Meyerdales and tucked into a huge breakfast, which set me up nicely all the way till lunch in Ohioplye.

After relaxing there for an hour and a bit and catching up on the calories with some ice cream, I headed towards Pittsburgh. I had already done 50 miles and I needed another 80 miles before I would reach Pittsburgh. I thought this could be a possibility if I pushed on through the night, but I lowered my target, knowing that I could hit my first 100 miles in a day mark if I reached Cemetery Camp Creek.

I pushed on, the insect life next to the river had picked up and the bugs were sticking to me like glue as I cycled through them. My arms were dotted black and I had no idea what was caught in my hair!! I reached the camp just after dark, the moon was out and the other campers were heading off to bed. I had a quick wash under a pump which was quite tricky as I had to wash and pump at the same time. Sadly dinner consisted of a handful of some cashew nuts. I headed off to bed as quickly as possible to try and avoid some hungry sounding mosquitoes!

Day 7 – Frostburg, MD

Day 7 – C&O Trail, MD to Frostburg, MD

I slipped away early today, leaving the campsite munching on some mini croissants with peanut butter, my new favourite thing since being on this trip. It was a pretty uneventful night as there were no storms. But the storms had done their worst further up the trail. It might be hard to understand for non-cyclist how frustrating it is to constantly stop every half mile to lift you heavy bike with all your equipment over branches and tree trunks. It took 5 hours to get 18 miles and with that average, it didn’t bode well for the remainder of the trip. In passing other cyclists along the way we would exchange stories with one another about our ordeals with lugging our bikes over fallen trees. By the sound of things, I had it easy so far but I was not prepared to go through it for another 5 hours so I decided to go off the trail and hit the roads. Apart from the occasional 20-degree gradient climbs over a few miles, I think I choose wisely.

I hit Cumberland in the late afternoon and had only done 45 miles. The next town was Frostburg 17 miles away and a 1000ft climb. People advised taking the steam train up but other than the unbelievable price to go 17 miles, the next train was in four days!! So off I went on the climb. I hit Frostburg just before 8 pm and was tempted to go a bit further but I was exhausted and thought I would make it to the top of the mountain tomorrow.

I set up camp at the back of an Inn. While I was there I met another guest who was staying there. His name was Victor and his first words to me were, “I know an accent when I hear one….. Texan?”. After seeing my shock at his guess he laughed and said, “just messing with you man, I know you’re from Britain”. Victor told me of his cycling adventures from Havana to San Diego about 30 years ago. He offered me a shower in his room but I declined as the smell of me would probably send his two daughters screaming!! We chattered a bit about my trip and how I was thinking of heading further north towards Chicago rather than south towards St Louis. He proposed that if I did head towards Chicago, I had to go to this great restaurant and that I could stay at his apartment. The generosity of the American people was beginning to become a reoccurring theme.

Day 6 – C&O Trail, MD

Day 6 – Chambersburg, PA to C&O Trail,

?? miles

The next day I took the C&O trail, a beautiful trail, that would hopefully see me off the roads till Pittsburgh and in the shade a bit more than yesterday. Apart from the occasional fallen tree from the previous night’s storm getting in my way, by the afternoon I had made good progress. I had been on the trail for about 35 miles without seeing many people. The trail did have free camp grounds every 5 miles with everything you need. So when I had ridden passed 6 sites with no one in sight I was expecting to spend the evening alone.

I had ear marked one site called Devils Alley, but when I strolled up on a site with a group of boy scouts, I thought this could be an interesting night with them. One watches films when younger about the boy scouts or American camps and I was intrigued to see if there was any truth in them. However they seemed to be a pretty standard class, one half eager to learn watching the scout leader in every move he does holding onto each word he says like it is the gospel and then the other half who looked like they were force there by their fathers and couldn’t really care less and thought it was a bit of a laugh. Other bikers started turning up as the evening progressed, they were telling me stories of the night before, been caught up in the storm with trees falling on them. One told me he was so fearful for his life that he spent the entire night in the porter loo’s!! I can assure all my readers that these loo’s are worse then any summer festival porter loo could throw at you and the smell was indescribable.

After cooking myself a bit of pasta and an evening swim in the river I retreated to my tent to try and get some sleep. I could hear the boy scouts sitting round the fire telling stories, all it needed was a guy with a guitar singing and I reckon it would have been a complete American camping experience.

Day 5 – Chambersburg, PA

Day 5 Harrisburg, PA to Chambersburg, PA

61 miles

No amount of research or training could have prepared me for what was about to come. Planning my route I knew I had no trials and no back country roads. All day I was on busy roads all the way till Hagerstown. I knew though that once I reached this point I would have over 300 miles of scenic bike trails all the way till Pittsburgh, so I believed it to be worthwhile. I left the hotel later than planned but I felt Hagerstown was within easy reach as it was only on the roads. The morning flew by and after lunch I was continually stopping for breaks and consuming more water then I could carry, at one point in the afternoon I was sitting under a tree drinking what felt like boiling water, not what I needed when I wanted to cool down. It was only when I got to the supermarket to get a chilled water that I realised what I had been cycling in, my phone clocked the temperature at 104 degrees, and the humidity was excruciating to go with it.

After a bite at Big Joe’s restaurant, I started to think about all the quirky things I had noticed so far about America and Pennsylvania. I was beginning to see that American culture was not too dissimilar to that of the UK although our cars don’t beep their horns after we lock them and why does the cycling man on the road have an overly large helmet? America too has its own eccentricities and oddities.

For some reason I decided to put myself up in a local Motel, I was meant to camp but I didn’t quite make it to my final destination. However, this turned out to be almost a life-saving decision as during the night was one of the worst storms that Pennsylvania, Washington and Virginia have seen for decades, some people were saying centuries but I thought that might be pushing it. I sure I am going to see the full devastation tomorrow along the trail.

Day 4 – Harrisburg, PA

Day 4 – Lebanon, PA to Harrisburg, PA

42 miles

A good night sleep and a big breakfast just down the road were just what I needed. I was now in Amish Country and they struck me as incredibly friendly people, they probably had more enthusiasm for my trip than I did!

I hit the road and headed for Harrisburg before turning towards Carlisle. It was backcountry roads so the traffic was okay.

When going down these country roads people would pull over to ask if I needed any help, obviously assumed I was lost, especially when I would say I was looking for the way to San Francisco!

As I was nearing Harrisburg in the late afternoon passing through next to the river and over the bridge, I questioned my decision to keep going as there was a good buzz about the place and I was already very tired.

Marquees had been set up and people started arriving for the baseball game. I was intrigued to watch a baseball game as it is not too popular in the UK and I thought this would be a perfect opportunity to delve into some American culture.

I booked myself into the Comfort Inn, quickly showered and headed over to watch the Harrisburg Senators against some team called the Pirates (I wasn’t really sure).

After seeing the Harrisburg Senators losing 3-0 at half time. Along with Monkey racing and midget wrestling, it was more than I could take. I headed back to the Inn for a quick supper at the ‘Paradise in India’ restaurant. Not quite the authentic experience one might expect from the name but nevertheless the food was good.

On the way out I was bombarded by a group who thought I was a celebrity from the news, I assured them I wasn’t but somehow they didn’t believe me. Off to bed, another big day tomorrow.

Day 3 – Lebanon, PA

Day 3 Valley Forge National Historical Park, PA to Lebanon, PA

68 miles

I was surprised it hadn’t happened already, but this morning when I woke, I felt incredible stiffness in my legs. It felt like I was walking around with boulders pressing down on my legs.

After a quick breakfast, maintenance check and clean of my bike with Tom, he very kindly drove me back to the exact spot where he picked me up. He gave me a few bits of equipment and some sound advice as we said goodbye.

It was good to know that I would now be solely on a bike trail all the way until Reading avoiding the highways. The journey was a good 40 miles away and most of the time the route was shaded from the sun, the temperature was beginning to climb and was now getting to around 32 degrees C.

Maybe it was the heat, maybe the aches from my legs but after reaching Reading, I was so exhausted that I kept falling over.

The worst fall came just after lunch as I tried to avoid scraping along a hedge, I lost my balance and fell onto the pavement. I knew I had to stop. I stopped for a quick lunch at a little cafe and before heading back onto the road but I still felt exhausted.

After 10 miles I pulled over to call home. I was bombarded with questions about why I hadn’t called, why I hadn’t done this and that. Not what I needed!

After been persuaded to call it a day. I cycled on another 15 miles to a motel my brother had booked for me.

It just didn’t have the same feel as the other nights had, the nearest diner was a couple of miles away and the last thing I wanted to do was get back on the bike.

So dinner consisted of a few cashew nuts and granola bars before I called it a night.

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