Day 18 – Le Roisire to Meran

For been so high up, I was quite warm for the night. I was slow getting away because I was checking up on my bike and found the brake had been rubbing against the wheel as I was going up yesterday, no wonder it was so difficult! Getting to the Petit St Bernard pass was relatively straight forward, I stopped up just before to fill up my bottles with the mountain water and took my time once I was over it.

The place was fantastic, the Mont Blanc mountain range was on the left and down below was Italy, because I had fiddled with the brakes I only had one working so had to take it slow going down. Not that I was complaining, every corner showed something new something different, and it was a smooth down hill all the way into the Aosta Valley. I had planned to stop at Aosta but just before there was a picnic place with a great view of a Chateau with the mountains in the background so decided to stop, drink a shake and rest under the tree. The heat in the valley was intense compared with the cold mountain air.

As I got going again and made my way to my host for the night, Dario, I was stopped on the road by a man shouting me down. I stopped, thinking he was going to tell me cyclists are not allowed or something but it was my host Dario, we chatted for a bit introducing ourselves before he headed home and I was to follow although a couple of hours behind him.

As I pulled up to his village, it seemed like it was hidden behind a mountain, narrow roads with old style windows. I went through once but couldn’t see his house then I heard someone shouting at me. Dario helped me with my bike into his courtyard. They were doing an extension to the house, so I was in the new bit that was being renovated. I had a much-needed shower, and then we settle down to supper. I hadn’t had a proper meal since Albertville, so I was starving. His wife didn’t speak a word of English, so most of the conversation was with Dario. He could not have been nicer offering all sorts of foods and speaking in English. As I had ridden into Italy, I came to the realisation that I didn’t speak a word of Italian; I had spent the last two weeks trying to learn French now it was Italian.

After supper, we headed outside into the courtyard where he showed me some of the mountains of the area and told me of the rich history of Aosta. We chatted away before we both decided to call it a night. First night in Italy, let’s see what you have to offer.

Day 17 – Albertville to Le Rosiere

I was half asleep when Xavier left, but Anouch and I had breakfast together. She kept cutting the bread, and we(mainly me) would finish it then she would cut more, and this process went on for about four times before I was slightly embarrassed about asking for more again. I packed up my things before Anouch kindly gave me the loaf as I was leaving saying she didn’t need it. Things like this go such a long way with me, I ration them little by little. I still have the package from Josh and Milly; it would have been eaten in seconds if I could spend but I never know when I will next taste chocolate or have a loaf of bread.

I was all about climbing to today, again the heat was relentless, but I managed to get to Bourg St Maurice early afternoon before looking up at the climb to the pass and over into Italy. I rested under a tree while the heat picked up and fell asleep. Around four I thought it was time to get going and what a climb it was.

The heat was still high, and the gradient grew as I went higher, the views, however, were stunning down one valley to the other.

Day 16 – Annecy to Albertville

I was up earlier enough to see Sarah go but I had breakfast with her husband, I would have happily devoured their entire loaf of bread but felt that would be greedy! I packed up all my things and got ready to say goodbye; he very kindly helped me down the lift and stairs before we said farewell. I wondered into the centre to see the town again; it is just a beautiful place to be. I didn’t have far to Albertville, so the plan was to relax by the lake, go for a swim and then head down in the evening.

I had cycled for about 15 km before I found a place to relax. I settled in and caught up with some work. I was surrounded by mountains and clear blue water, the lake is supposedly the cleanest in Europe so I was going to enjoy it, after two weeks cycling in the sun, I was hiding under a tree. The forecast was for clear skies all day, but again it was wrong, and another thunderstorm drew in out of nowhere, and everyone was running for cover. It looked like my swim was going to have to wait.

It was still raining, but I decided to just head to Albertville, the route was flat the whole way, but the weather was awful, it only really perked up once I arrived!

It took me a while to find the place I was staying. Xavier and Anouch had very kindly offered me a bed for the night. Xavier helped me with my bike and then took me up where I got a drink and chatted away; they had a 6-month-old who had the bluest eyes. After showering, I helped prepare supper with them, I say helped, I cut two peppers, and that was it before tucking into a bowl of nuts. Once the baby was in bed we chatted away over supper; these guys were quite the adventurous types although since the baby they have had to cut back. What was so nice was they ate ridiculously healthy, and it was fantastic to get a lot of whole food down me. After what felt like a scrummy 5-course meal we called it a night. They set up my bed on the sofa, and after a bit of work, I was out.

Day 15 – Chamonix to Annecy

Not the best night sleep, if any. As I woke another storm was brewing, and I was held up in the tent for a couple of hours.until the clouds parted, and the sun came out. I headed down to Chamonix where I met a friend of Josh’s called Dean. We went for a drink and chatted for a while, then as I was leaving he offered me a croissant, I couldn’t reject that!

I got going but it was slow as I kept stopping to take it all in, the scenery here is majestic. It was a small climb before heading down the valley, once I was down it was easy, but around 5.00 the heat was strong, and it was a climb to Annecy. I was dripping with sweat by the time I arrived and was early to my host, Sarah so headed down into the centre to see the lake and what was going on. I had to be quick as I had arranged to meet around 7.00pm.

I was greeted by Sarah helping me into the lift with my bike before showing me into her flat, she asked if I wanted a shower first (that bad hey!) It felt amazing to be clean, and I afterwards went in to chat over a glass of water. I met her husband there, and they were telling me tales of their adventures and the people who had been staying, they wanted to travel across Canada and told them to go for it, if it were anything like America, it would be amazing. When I saw the giant bowl of pasta on the shelf for supper my eyes lit up, a huge bowl of pasta with pesto always goes down a treat. We had chatted into the late evening before they wanted to go to bed and after last night so did I. Tomorrow I get to check out Lake Annecy before heading over to Albertville and up into the Alps again.

Day 14 – Verbier to Chamonix

So I had planned to cycle to Sion today, all down the hill and flat but had the idea to go to Chamonix and onto Lake Annecy. The forecast was good, but it was certainly quite a climb to the top. Around midday I said my goodbyes, picked up the bike and headed down the hill the sun was shining brightly, as soon as I got into Martigney I decided to take the shorter route, but the hills were so steep that I ended up walking a bit of it, dragging my bike. Suddenly out of nowhere, there was a rumble over the top of the mountain; grey clouds were flying over it and then out of nowhere rain rushed down. With thunder and lighting, there was no cover, and I was getting soaked, I saw ahead a JCB and prayed it was open which it was. I hid in there and ate some lunch that Milly and Josh had made for me and waited, and waited.

Once the rain passed, I finally got onto the main road where after an hour another storm rode in, again stranded on the highway I saw a cafe or restaurant in the distance and went there for shelter, it was closed, but I hid underneath the porch. Then the owner came out and asked me to come it, I accepted of course. She offered me a drink, but I declined and told her about my trip she said it was in the house, so kind to open up just for me and then give me a hot chocolate, then before you know it a pie came out, this was fantastic. Her English was as good as my French which is not saying much, but we seemed to understand each other and the few words we knew in each other’s language, also google translate was always there when neither had a clue! We chatted away for an hour or two before the storm passed and got moving again. I was blown away by her generosity, we met with a wave and were leaving with a hug and three kisses!

I got over the pass and down the valley before another small climb. As I was heading down towards Chamonix, I got a message from Josh saying that someone could have me that night, I was short of Chamonix but not by much, but it was getting dark and yet another rumble of thunder stirred in the distance rather than wait and hope I decided to camp. I quickly set up and had the left overs for my lunch, then when I got my sleeping bag out, it was soaked from the storm earlier, so I piled on every piece of clothing I had in the hope it would keep me warm. At altitude, I wasn’t sure.

Day 13 – Verbier

Day off, since I started pretty much my drone has not been working, it was working fine in the UK, but on day 3, I began to have problems, so I have been carrying a heavy drone around with no use. The morning was to try and get this work, and after about four hours of numerous youtube clips and DJI website, I still had no luck. Joe who helps run Mountain Air with his brother kindly said I could head up to get my bike checked so after a light lunch I took my bike up the hill to get it seen by one of the mechanics.

You would have thought in the mountains on one’s day off, you would want to hike up to see the scenery or go off road biking, but all I wanted to do was relax. I sat outside Le Bec in one of the lounge seats next to an older gentleman from Scotland who lives now near Verbier, and for about three hours chatted away about the mountains and love of Switzerland.

Once Josh had finished work, he set me up with some climbing pants before we headed down to the wall. I have wanted to climb for quite a while so was loving it, although I was quite hungry and was using the muscle that I knew was going to cause me pain the next morning. A friend had very generously given me dinner at t-bar on him, and I was keen to check out the new Japanese style menu, so after climbing and feeling rather peckish, we head over, where I wanted to order everything on the menu. They were super friendly there and even offered me a free t shirt for my journey ahead!

Day 12 – Le Chable to Verbier

As camping nights go, this was a good night. I was slow getting out but drank another shake, ate a few nuts and got going; this hill was a killer, 600m to 1500m in 7km. I took it slow; I wasn’t in any rush, my friends who I was staying with were at work, so I enjoyed the views and embraced the hill and my sore legs!

As I arrived in town, I walked up the hill with a hiker who had managed to get lost hiking the Haute route. We chatted as we had got to the centre of town before I guided him in the right direction and I went to the flat where I was staying, After I was briefly locked in a garage, I settled down and relaxed in the apartment before people started to come in the late afternoon. It was incredible seeing so many familiar faces and relax. Izzy came in and introduced herself before popping out again, Joe then came in, and I don’t think was expecting me, then Milly who greeted me with a huge hug and then Josh did.

Joe had a few friends over from the UK, so we had drinks and nibbles before settling down to a huge dinner of Fajita’s, so much food, I was almost overwhelmed! We laughed around the table telling each other’s stories before deciding to head out for a band playing in Farinet. The summer here has an entirely different vibe from the one in the winter, calm, relaxed and not that many people around. With the lack of money or should I say none, I was on the water although I was offered numerous times whether I wanted a pint. The band was playing a great set and lay the mood for the night, Just before close we headed back for the evening, it was a great feeling to know that tomorrow I could relax and not worry about making up the miles.

Day 11 – Lausanne to Le Chable

I was awake early, but I relaxed as I did think I had that far to go although it was another climb, I decided to spend the morning with Lilly and Oscar, after breakfast, we chilled out on the sofa until around midday when the heat had picked up, and we all decide to go our separate ways. The good thing about climbing the steep hills in the pleasure of going down them and in particular through the vineyards.

The sun was out, and I was able to cycle along the lake for about 20 odd km, stopping under a tree or two along the way. The place is incredible; I love it here. It was flat, and after a few mountains, you appreciate the flat bits. I rode into Martigny in the late afternoon and started climbing towards Le Chable; I thought I would camp as I had planned for a rest day in Verbier.

As I rode into Marigny in the evening, one of the problems I found was that, by not meeting anyone, I couldn’t have any food. It was a difficult thing for me, do I beg, do I engage with the few people in town? Instead, I decided to test my stamina with just Huel and a few nuts to see if I can feel ok relying on just this for 36 hrs. I walked up to the hill for a bit into I found a bit of open land hidden away from the crowds, I set up my tent, with the view down the valley, not going to lie, I think it was the most picturesque spot I have ever camped in. I settle for a shake for supper and a few nuts before slowly drifting off to sleep. Tomorrow I have the steep climb to Verbier.

Day 10 – Pontarlier to Lausanne

Been cyclists, Annie knew what I wanted, bread, pancakes, eggs and earl grey tea, the works! It had been such a pleasure getting to know these two, and they couldn’t have made my life easier for me. As I packed up my stuff, they took a picture of me; they have an album of all the cyclists that have stayed. The weather is meant to kind to me, but the clouds were looking gloomy.

There was a bit of climb to start with but once I was over, the clouds parted, and I was flying for miles and miles down hill. I was through the border without a check and into Switzerland. I arrived in Lake Geneva in the early afternoon, and it looked amazing, dark blue with mountains as the backdrop. I cycled slowly taking it all in before heading to Lily and Oscar’s place, friends from my season. She had warned me it was quite a hill to get up to take a long way round as it is an easier climb, I had been wondering around Lake Geneva aimlessly and missed the turn so had to take the country road up, it started slowly but by the end I was dragging my heavy bike up the hill, no bike could get up this, by the time I arrived I was sweating buckets. Oscar grabbed me a drink, and we sat down to relax and catch up. The view over the lake was insane.

After a long relaxing time on the terrace, I got showered, Lily said I could put a wash, this was music to my ears, I hadn’t washed any of my clothes since I started, only three socks and underwear….. you do the maths!! Oscar has been the former chef cooked a delicious vegetarian curry which I consumed rather too quickly. We relaxed and ended up watching a movie late into the evening. It was so chilled and easy to be there, especially with the view over the Lake, although once I went to bed, I found that the French charger would now not go into the Swiss one, another problem occurs, can’t have it too easy hey!

Day 9 – Gray, Fra to Pontarlier, Fra

As Martin and Pauline both worked, I was away around 8.30 am, and there was a good reason for that the big climb was coming, and I had a lot of kilometres to cover. Pauline rustled up some delicious scrambled eggs, which will certainly help for the day ahead. We said our goodbyes and I was on my way. I considered taking the quicker route which had more traffic but after a couple of huge lorries whizzed by I thought the quieter route would be more pleasant.

The weather had indeed taken a turn for the worst and was hit and miss throughout the day, I was climbing and stumbling upon little towns and beautiful chateaus but when I passed the town of Levier, the dark clouds that had been forming the distance as I was cycling opened and hail ice so hard I could barely see 10 metres in front. I saw a small building and grabbed shelter; lighting was falling all around me and thunder so loud, it was like a gun going off next to my ear. The forecast was for it to continue so rather than stand around cold and wet I decided to crack on.

When I reached Christian and Annie’s house, my host for the night, I was soaked. Christian kindly showed me to my room, and the shower said get ready and then come up stairs for supper. The shower felt amazing, I was so cold, and it took me a while to warm up. Then upstairs for a pre drink of sherry before sitting down for an amazing homemade Cottage pie, french style! We chatted about their adventures from down Sweden earlier in the year to all over the world. This was over a glass of wine and followed by a scummy apricot pancake cake or something along the lines. They were so kind, and when it was time to say goodnight, it was 9.00pm, I thought it was a bit early, but I was exhausted and thought it would be the perfect opportunity to catch up on some sleep. Out of France and into Switzerland. The French people have been so kind and welcoming, and I can’t thank them enough for their extraordinary hospitality.

Day 8 – Ageville, Fra to Gray, Fra

24^th July 2017

We sat down for breakfast of bread and jam, but before I went Christian gave me a loaf of bread and a whole bag of dried fruit, let’s just say I won’t be going hungry today. We said our goodbyes and I was on my way. It had been a pleasure getting to know Christian, and I said I would pass by in three years when his wine has been produced!

I head first to Langres, an ancient fort city on top of a rather steep hill, it was quite a climb and even involved my first tumble down a hill, just so happened there was a police car just behind me who were very quick to offer help, and I am sure had a giggle after! This city was incredible, beautiful old narrow streets, old buildings and a stunning cathedral in the middle of the city, surrounded by a twenty-foot wall. I wondered around; I have to admit it was slightly torturous seeing all the fantastic cafes and restaurants that I can’t go. I had one of my shakes and pressed on. The weather has been chilled, borderline cold. It feels like the legs and mind are starting to get used to cycling 100km a day now and feels less of a struggle.

I reached the town of Grays in the evening; I was greeted by a man with a big beard and an even bigger smile, Martin, again after attempting my French he restored to English to make life easier. He and his girlfriend lived on the fourth floor with no lift, so we had to carry my bike up to the top where it was quite a struggle, But it was worth it when I arrived, shower and the full hospitality, we chatted over some crisps and guacamole before his girlfriend, Pauline, came back from work. She didn’t speak that much English, but I was trying out my French. We sat down to Fajita’s which went down a storm. When I was offered the chance to play Ball or Batong in French. So after supper, we went to a courtyard nearby to play, I took an early lead, but in the end, Pauline took the honours. I had wanted to play ever since I arrived and towards the end, I finally got the chance. Martin had gone out of his way to show me a really good time, but tomorrow I am away early to climb to Pontarlier.

Day 7 – Bar-le-Duc to Ageville, Fra

23^rd July 2017

With money, I would have wondered into town and bought a travel adapter, but I thought there must be another way.

I strolled down for breakfast, bread and a delicious homemade jam. I had chatted with Emelie before he headed upstairs to change, so I packed my things and got ready to go. Words cannot express my gratitude to them for buying me supper and showing me around the town, they went out of their way, and I owe them for it.

I cycled into town to have a look through the narrow streets and the stunning Architecture before cycling up the steep town hill and out of the town. I am starting to find the cycling easier now, although the legs ache every morning, they are getting stronger and going the miles less of a chore. The roads were empty and the hills gradual, it was bliss, riding through small farm towns and feeling like you have the place to yourself. The weather was overcast with quite a strong head wind.

I was making good time though and arrived in a quiet village called Ageville in the early evening, where Christain greeted me, a retired gentleman who after I spoke my best French to him kindly resorted to English. I showered, and then we went outside to have a snack of homemade bread and wild garlic pesto. The conversation seemed to run smoothly as before long it was supper and we chatted away till about 10.00pm, he has a small vineyard and so gave me some red wine from the same grapes he is about to produce, delicious it was.

As we were about to call it a night, I asked if Christian might have a spare French plug, he went out and came back with about five to choose from, rather than say he is tired and we can do it in the morning. We set about cutting the wires and putting the wires into a French plug. Words cannot describe the euphoria I felt when I plugged it in and got power, this means I can charge my phone, and all other electronics without it I was completely ………….