Day 43 – Shkoder to Tirana

I wasn’t sure if breakfast was included and Mikel never said tuck in, so I had a few nuts while everyone tucked into the breakfast prepared before I took off back into the manic city of Shkoder. Before heading out, I picked up a loaf of bread from the bakery. I cycle through the rural landscape of Albania, some parts of it were quite dilapidated, but it was an interesting contrast from other regions of the tour. I cycled till around midday when the stopped at a petrol station for a drink and some cold air. I must have fallen asleep briefly because when I woke the guys were apparently feeling very sorry for and paid for my drink! I was quite taken back but showed what amazing generosity you get from people.

I cycled on through the afternoon and again into a city, this time the city of Tirana, again completely mental. To make things worse, the road I was meant to take was closed, so had to take a diversion, only to find the diversion wasn’t shown so took about three different routes then came back on myself before getting it right. I wanted to get out of the city, and up into the hills before sunset, I did not want to be here when it got dark. When I finally got out, I cycled into the hills and onto the quiet roads. It used to be the main route to the next city before the recent motorway was built, so there were lots of hotels and cafes.

I stopped at a restaurant that looked very empty. The guy didn’t speak a word of English so communicating with him proved quite difficult however thanks to google translate I managed to ask him for a traditional Albanian meal, completely unaware of what I was going to get. I have to admit when I saw it I thought this was the moment when I thought I would probably get food poisoning!! The food looked ok, but after my episode in Kenya, I am a little wary. I ate it all and felt ok, I said goodbye and went in search of a spot to camp. Rather than carrying on down the hill, I wanted to see the sun go down, so I cycled back from where I came from a few miles, watched it go down and found camping spot nearby on top of the hill.

Day 42 – Bay of Kotor to Shkoder

I was up before sunrise and what a view I had, the morning colours glistened off the lake. I cycled slowly around it, taking my time to appreciate where I was. I rode into Kotor by around 8.00am to have a cup of tea and relax. I had already done about 30km and hadn’t even left the bay yet! I was staying with a guy tonight from warm showers in Shkoder so had quite a trek ahead of me.

I headed out of Kotor through the tunnel and down towards the beach. It was packed with locals, and all I wanted to do was jump into the sea and wash off a bit. I changed and dived straight in, after a few seconds of just standing in the water, I felt a sharp pain on my leg like something had just bit me. It gave me a huge shock, and I rushed out much to the surprise of the surrounding people, a small gash was on my leg, obviously, something had bitten me. Well, that was the end of the sea swim!!

I had breakfast on the side before heading up into the hills and crossing into Albania; this country was entirely different to the others and quite a culture shock. Most countries along the way have just blended into each other, but this place was quite different once you crossed the border. It was more rural, and there was a red haze around because of the forest fires. I headed to the city of Shkoder which once I arrived was a mad house in comparison to what I had been used to, cars everywhere, cyclist cycling towards you, people walking out in front of you, it was crazy.

I reached my destination just before dark where I met Mikel, he ran a hostel but said I could pitch my tent in the garden and have a shower. There were other travelers there which was nice, and I got chatting to an American couple who had been trekking all over eastern Europe. Then a rather eccentric Bulgarian man playing the saxophone walk in who had a few stories to tell. There was no supper so settled for nuts and dried fruit. The evening was spent chilling on their balcony with a few others chatting away about Albania before settling into my tent.

Day 41 – Dubrovnik to Bay of Kotor

I woke up feeling terrible. I had only had about three hours sleep, the others in my room were fast asleep. I realized I had told Philip I was leaving at 6.30am, but it was getting close to 8.00. I had breakfast and packed up my things; everything seemed to take forever. When I finally got going, I was too late to say goodbye to Philip who had already left.

I headed up the hill and out of the old town, the back wheel on my bike was looking a little flatter than usual, so I decided to pump it up, for some reason the valve unscrewed on my pump so deflated the entire tire. Cutting a long story short, I had to completely dismantle the bike, change the inner tube and in the heat and the way I was feeling, it was a real struggle and took about 45 minutes. Once I got going, I was ok. I headed out of Croatia and into Montenegro. As I came into the country, there were forest fires that created this gentle haze in the distance, probably not great for the lungs but easy on the eye. Although now I couldn’t use my phone as I had done throughout the other countries, Montenegro uses the euro which was handy.

I headed down to the beach to get out of the midday sun and relaxed with an ice tea and some lunch. The aim was to get near Kotor for the evening. I cycle toward the bay; I was tempted to catch the ferry that would have taken about 50km off my journey but opted once I was there to cycle around the entire bay. It was incredible, this place is just magical, yet it seems to be a miss with tourists, the roads are quiet, and you don’t have large hotels taking up the view.

As night drew in I found a place to camp on the hill, there was a layered hill, out of sight from everyone with a view out on the lake and towards Kotor. It had been a struggle today, I was exhausted but to go to bed with this view was not too bad.

Day 40 – Dubrovnik

I decided to take the day off to explore, one of the staff offered me a bed for an excellent rate, so I took it, the place is touristy, so I was up before sunrise to see the area without the crowds. I explored the market and the old fort and watched the sun rise in the distance over the old town. One of the great things about the hostel is free food all day, so I went in to make the most of it, I told the guy it was a dangerous offer for me, he laughed!

I set up to do some work and saw as people from the night before started to come down slightly sheepish. Some had to grab early flights, so I said my goodbyes before setting up a place to do some work in the hall way rather than a cafe. When the afternoon came round I thought I would mix it up with all the tourist in the centre and explore as well as relax on the nearby beach, I didn’t feel like swimming but just enjoyed the show in front of me. There were people flyboarding and one, in particular, was quite exciting to watch.

In the evening a group of the staff were heading out and asked if I wanted to join them. We headed to the port to have a few drinks and then moved onto an empty club playing some traditional Croatian music. After a while, the British classics started to come on, the night flew by, and as they were heading onto the next club at 5.00am, I thought it was probably time to hit the hay. I had told Philip I was leaving at 6.30, but I don’t think that was going to happen tomorrow, maybe 7.30.

Day 39 – Opuzen to Dubrovnik

I wanted to get up for sunset but, been surrounded by trees meant I couldn’t see much. As I was packing up the owner comes out, bracing for a telling off, he says something in Croatian and then smiles. I said something back and smiled so seemed ok. I cycled up and over the hills, the golden tilt of the sun rise made for quite the view once I was at the top.

My aim of the day was to get close to Dubrovnik, but I wasn’t sure if I wanted to make it in. People had been raving about this city but how special could it be? After cycling for an hour or so I was starving, the lack of a decent supper the night before was starting to show. So when I hit the town of Klek, I cycled down to the sea and the bakery, relaxed under a tree and watch the beachgoers go about their day as I devoured an entire baguette and a few croissants.

The morning was slow, but I was enjoying just taking it all in. I was 6km short of Dubrovnik when I saw an appealing beach to go for a swim, I was hungry but the turquoise sea was too good to miss, lunch could wait. Refreshing, to say the least especially after not having a shower for a couple of days. After a few hours, I cycled on and saw another touring cyclist, Philip from Austria. He had been going much longer than I but stopped for months rather than a few days here and there. We rode in Dubrovnik and the old town. I was expecting a sort of gradual fade into the town, but as we rode down the hill, we had to enter through draw bridge, this was medieval stuff! Wow, it was like nothing I had seen before, everything clean and beautiful golden white stone. It was pack though with tourists. We wondered around and then grabbed some food from the bakery. I had booked into a hostel for the night, so after a while, in the evening I checked myself in, I wanted to explore the city without the bike. I said goodbye to Philip and said we would meet tomorrow or something. I wanted a shower and to wash so of my clothes. What I like about hostels, when traveling on your own is that nearly everyone is in the same boat. Therefore, they are sociable and easy to meet. Tonight was no different, free mojito night and the night went on into the early hours, the owner was trying to teach us all how to dance, I wanted to show him that I could !!

Day 38 – Velo Grablje to Opuzen

I was up at sunrise and did enjoy the crisp air, the days off had refreshed me. I was cycling to the other side of the island and being a tiny island with little traffic; it was like I had the whole place to myself. I was cycling through the town and seafront towns, probably most tourist miss these place off, but they should explore them as they are gorgeous like Hvar.

I got the ferry over to the mainland, I was going to carry on, but as I got over, there was a packed out beach. Not really what I wanted but I found a spot to lie down on, I was out for quite a while and left around 5.00 without making an effort for a swim as the beach was way too crowded. I cycled in land and with the sole aim of finding a bar to watch the football. I know, I am Croatia, why would you want to go and watch the football. I saw a bar with a TV and went to ask if they were going to show the football. The game didn’t kick off for a couple of hours, and the bar didn’t have food, so I went over the road to the next bar. No food again but a supermarket next door although very little to choose from other than a traditional Croation what can only be described as a meat roll loop type thing. When the football ended, it was pitch black, and I needed to find a spot to set up my tent, I found a space nearby in a lime orchard where I was guaranteed not to be disturbed, it was hidden away from any eyes.

Day 37 – Hvar to Velo Grablje

I chilled out at the hostel in the morning chatting with the staff and other travelers, they let me into their private space to relax and do some work. I didn’t do much all day if I’m honest, stayed out of the sun, as I made been out in it for the past month and yesterday was I had probably had a bit too much.

I set off in the afternoon, picked up some supplies from the supermarket, ie, food and cycle up into the hills, to the highest point to get the view of the island. I had enjoyed Hvar, it was different to what I had been used to, and a welcome distraction.

I headed up and climbed till I was at the highest point, I saw a dirt track and rode till I saw an area to camp. It was quite unique, although alone, I watched as the sun went down and the colours from the sunset were incredible.

Day 36 – Hvar

I had been used to getting up early, and the alarm went off, but I was straight back to sleep once I turned it off. There had been talking the night before about getting a boat for the day and taking it round the islands. I thought this might have been drunken talk but come breakfast there was a group assembled and we headed to a small boat on the harbour.

We drove around the islands jumping into the water whenever we found a good spot to swim. The group comprised of a couple of Canadians and the rest Brits. It seems that the British just find places around the world and then dominate the area whereas, throughout this journey, other European countries such as Germany tend to be more spread out.

We were on the boat all day and at the end, we back to the hostel before, one of my roommates, Flo and I went to grab some supper. Sadly though as we sat down to eat she got an email saying she was booked off the ferry in the evening, so left to go and sort it out and left me to eat alone although it was delicious and I didn’t mind too much. I had considered going out again, but in the evening as I rest my head on my pillow I was out and woke up at 2 am so missed the evening antics, slightly annoying but cycling off tomorrow around the island, no alcohol was not a bad thing.

Day 35 – Primosten to Hvar

There had been a thunderstorm during the night, and I didn’t get much sleep, the last few days seemed to have rolled into one, and I was finding the days becoming quite repetitive, so I decided in the morning to take the advice of people and take the ferry over to Hvar and check it out. I packed up everything and cycled towards Split. On the way, I caught up with our German friend from the day before and cycled with him towards Split. We reached the town just before lunch where we grabbed a drink, and I went to check on ferry times, great a couple of hours to kill before I head to Hvar. Daniel wanted to head on so again we said goodbye and rather than walk around the incredibly busy city centre I went to relax nearby and chat to anyone who was intrigued by my bike. When the time came, I put my bike on the ferry and went up to the lobby. There I met an Aussie couple who were too heading to Hvar; we chatted for the duration about Australia and Byron Bay amongst other things before we stopped in Stari Grad, not Hvar. I was then told it wasn’t going to Hvar as the operator said to me, so I was going to have to cycle, I had mentally switched off and thought I could relax for the rest of the day.

The 30 km wasn’t too bad though, and I reached Hvar town in the late afternoon and decided before checking into a hostel and paying for my first night stay on this trip to take a dip in the sea. People were like sea lions here, they find their rock, and then they chill out on it till they feel like a swim and then back onto their rock to relax.

I strolled into the town, I had considered camping on the outskirts but I wanted to be in the centre so found a hostel in the heart of the town. I checked myself in and got myself a room with a load of other people. The evening we were chatting in the kitchen with people from all different nationalities although most were British. I came unprepared for Hvar, but a couple of hours later I found myself on a boat drinking with the group from the hostel and dancing away. Then a bar crawl, although it was only one and then onto a club on an island where you had to take a boat to get there. 12 hours ago I was deciding whether or not to come and now I am on an island clubbing, quite the change of scenery.

Day 34 – Sukosan to Primosten

After cycling about 10 km and wondering maybe where to eat, I had a cyclist sneak up behind me to introduce himself. Daniel from Germany, a teacher ride down the Croatian coast. We chatted for a bit before cycling together towards Sibenik; we stopped a few times cause he said I ride too fast, I was secretly quite happy with that statement! So decided to let him lead and follow behind. We have different approaches to our days, I stop in the afternoon and ride in the evenings till I find a place to sleep, no idea where. He travels to his stop usually a camping ground and rest in the evening; he has to ride through the afternoon heat which I think is quite tedious.

Once we got into Sibernick we stopped at a supermarket for lunch and then went down to the beach, I wanted to relax, but he wanted to have a quick swim and head on. I was sure I was going to see him again along the route, but we said farewell for now. I chilled for the afternoon, mostly in the shade before a quick dip in the crowded sea.

Like for the last couple of days, I headed off in the late afternoon and cycled along the coastal road till the sun went down. I was searching for a camping spot, and eventually, I opted for a stroll up a quiet hill where there was an olive orchard, I had a view of the sun go down.

Day 33 – Lukovo Šugarje to Sukosan

For some reason, while I was cycling along, I had thought about stopping at Zadar for lunch but once I got going and again the heat picked up, the thought of spending my time in a city slightly filled me with dread, so I decided on a beach just before it to rest.

Posedarje was the place, and this was a small inlet where not many tourists go. They played the worst music, I mean I haven’t heard ‘barbie girl’ played on the airwaves for quite some time, but this sort of music was blasted out. I was on the grass under a tree and probably nodded off a few times. Again when the afternoon heat calmed down I got going, I avoided Zadar as I wanted to take a shorter route towards Sukosan.

Once I got in, I headed to the supermarket where some old Croatian women seemed angry at anyone going into it, like some protester!! I went through the town to check it out and see all the people coming off the beach. I needed a place to camp; I cycled out before I found a gap in the hedge and out to the sea, I considered camping there but it was quite rocky so decided on supper there, watch the sun go down before finding a place just off the roads in the woods.

Day 32 – Senj to Lukovo Šugarje

I seem to be having the same routine at the moment at today was no different, I was up and headed to the bakery for some bread. The landscape is rocky and mountainous to one side, and bright blue sea to the other. As I cycle, there are islands off the coast. I cycle till the heat picks up as rest at a small town. Usually, I order something quite simple, and this time I opted for the chips, I have to say when one orders chips/french fries, and the waitress asked if you want ketchup you don’t really expect the ketchup to be just as expensive as the chips.

Feeling slightly burnt from the lunch! I headed down to the water and relaxed under a tree, the Croatian heat during the early afternoon is something I am keen to avoid. The water here though is amazing, crystal clear and refreshing.

As the evening drew in and the heat cooled a little, I cycled on down the coastal road through the quiet Croatian villages and towns. I was thinking of sneaking into a camp site on the rocky side of the road didn’t look too comfortable, but then decided against it. However as I was thinking about a German man with his dog came up, and we got chatting, after a while, he said I could join him for a beer later on if I can find him in the camp site. The light was fading, and there was a stepped terrace with olive trees, I left my bike at the bottom and climbed up with my tent, set it up and then wandered into the camp site. I couldn’t see them so ate my supper on the beach watching the glow of the sunset slowly disappeared. As I was leaving, a teenager asks me if I wanted that drink, it was the German man’s son. We sat down and chatted over a beer, about caravan living over hotels, the son was very much in favour of the hotel life! As well as life back home. It had been nice to chat away for an hour or so; sometimes you can go the whole day without speaking much to anyone. Though once it was around ten and after cycling most of the day, I was yawning away so said goodbye and wandered up to my tent.