Day 6 – Vrizy, Fra to Bar-le-Duc, Fra

22^nd July 2017

I settled down for breakfast with Celin and Johan, they make their apple juice which was delicious so was drinking that with the bread for breakfast. Then we were greeted by Johan’s father; I was trying out my French on him but was limited at best sadly. I have to say though when put in a situation where you are forced to learn, the words come flowing back, and you pick the language up very quickly, I was coming from a low start so still not that great! I said my goodbyes and was on my way; I had enjoyed getting to know these two.

Like yesterday I was going through deep farmlands, with a few hills here and there, the landscape was rolling now, but I am finding some of the days quite mundane, the idea was to open up and meet people along the way, but with no money I can’t go into a cafe for a drink or a restaurant for a snack. The days are almost in isolation, watching the landscape change as I cycle away.

When I did have an opportunity for a random social interaction in the evening, a Frenchman with his family inviting me in for a drink I rejected it as I was so determined to make it to Fanny and Emelie’s house at the time I said. This bugged me for the rest of the journey.

As the evening was drawing in, I cycled down into the town of Bar-le-Duc, an old town dating back pre renaissance I believe. The town was stunning, old full of character. I met Fanny and Emelie and they showed me to my room, they had a beautiful on town house but fitted with a contemporary feel. After showering, they said they were going to take me out to a restaurant; this is awkward, I can’t spend any money! They insisted that they will pay. I am not going to lie this was an incredible act of generosity, and I was at odds with it but with this trip, I have to rely on other generosity.

They took me to a new vegan restaurant in the town centre, I was thinking I was going hungry no matter what I ate, but with a spag bol substitute, I thought I might be in luck. It went down a storm, and before we headed home, they showed me part of the town to get a better understanding of the area and the history. Emelie and I settled down to a game of chess before we called it a night.

As I was preparing for the morning, I went to plug in my electronic to charge for the night, the European adapter not there, “Oh **** it came off at the last place as I was pulling the plug out”, I asked Fanny and Emilie if they had one but no, I thought this was curtains for the trip, I can’t charge my phone or anything. I need one, do I just buy one tomorrow in town and call an end to this no money concept that seemed to more of a hindrance rather than a bonus?

Day 5 – Horsin, Fra to Vrizy, Fra

21^st July 2017

My sleep bag was lightweight, and the temperature had plummeted, so I didn’t get much sleep, the condensation had dampened my clothes that were hanging on his washing line so got wetter than they had when they went up! I got up to say goodbye to his wife who was leaving early, and then Oliver ran out to pick up some breakfast while I prepared for the day ahead. We sat down to breakfast us to and although limited by different languages you can still get an idea of what each other is saying. Oliver had been so kind and gone out his way to show me his town, he was a huge cycling fan and showed such enthusiasm towards my trip. I think by the time we left I felt like my French had improved and his English too.

I was deep in the French farmlands and for most of the day maize and harvested wheat was my view, the flat ground was rolling more into steeper hills, and the sun had come out. I was riding through really old farm towns, so looked like they hadn’t been touched in centuries. I stopped in a town just after 2 pm to eat the sandwich that Oliver had given me, rested under a tree and tried to take it all in.

The afternoon I took a few wrong turnings and added quite a few km to my journey, but by the evening I made it to Celine’s house. A large farmhouse in the middle of the town. Celine told me she was going to be back late so when I knocked on the door and got nothing I relaxed down the road for a while before trying my luck again. This time I was in luck, she showed me to the garage and to drop my bike and then introduced me to her boyfriend Johan a well-built fella who seemed a little cold at first but slowly warmed. Celine then showed upstairs to my room; it was in this huge barn house like room with a little corner closed for the beds. I got showered and headed down for supper. There was an extensive section of different things, from tomatoes in vinegar dressing to deer heart pate. I embraced it all, although I was a little hesitant at first about some it was excellent. I was working on my French and gradually we started to open up. They both don’t cycle, but like having people to stay to get to know the stories of other people and just help, they said most of the people are great to know.

After a terrible night sleep the night before, come 11.30pm I was starting to drift, we called it a night. It had been great getting to know Celine and Johan, but tomorrow I crack on to Bar-le-Duc.

Thank you for all the support. Bonne nuit….

Day 4 Cantin, Fra to Horsin, Fra

20^th July 2017

I came down to see Vincent preparing breakfast, after a quality breakfast we chatted for a bit about my route and their new adventures coming. Vincent was going for a morning cycle so agreed to cycle for a bit, I said my goodbye to Sophie, and we cycled for a bit before we went our separate ways. They had stocked me full of food for the journey from left over pasta to biscuits, and I couldn’t thank them enough for it, Vincent and Sophie were my age, and it had been a pleasure chatting with other adventurous people about their trip.

I rode along the canal before deciding it would be best to go along the road. After 40 odd km I stopped for lunch under a bridge, and then the heavens opened, and the rain came thundering down, I was huddled under, and small tree and it wasn’t doing much, when it calmed slightly I pressed on in it to make use of the massive tail wind and it seemed to do the trick.

I reached Olivers in the evening and so far this trip the people I have stayed with have spoken quite good English however Oliver’s was not, nearly as bad as my French! We seem to communicate quite well for a while but after about 20 mins, google translated came up and I was searching deep for all my French from my lessons when I was eight years old! He showed me to the tent he had made outside, and after showering he asked if I wanted to have supper with the neighbours, I thought I was going to be in for a difficult night but embracing everything that comes on this trip I said yes, and we headed over.

There I was greeted by a group my age again, one of them spoke quite good English, but I thought I would try and continue my French lesson! We chatted and then settled down to a feast of mini savoury crepes where you add your toppings to a little hot circle in the middle. This was shared with wine, beer, mojitos! Then crepe puddings followed by tea. We exchanged stories and chatted into the early hour by which time, my eyes were closing, and I was struggling to stay awake.

I said my goodbyes to his neighbours and climbed into my tent for the night.

Day 3 – Moulle, Fra to Cantin, Fra

19^th July 2017

I woke up to freshly squeezed OJ, carrot, something else and a whole load more things which was a real treat. The lentils and rice for breakfast was a bit more of a surprise though. Nonetheless, any food never goes a miss. I said my goodbyes and was on my way, cycling along the canal until the tarmac turned to sand.

The sun was blazing, and the wind was smack bang in my face throughout the day, it was tough going, and when I stopped for “lunch” consisting not more than a shake, the map said there was still 80 odd km to go, not what I wanted to see! The terrain was flat, but now and again my route would take me down some rogue narrow path, so it was a stop start affair.

By 5/6 pm I was nearly gone, the 7 litres I carry had gone and anything left inside me was almost at an end, there was a point 15km short where I didn’t think I was going to make it to Sophie and Vincent’s house. A hand full of nuts and raisins seemed to do the trick. Any sense of self-pity quickly evaporated when I rode up to see Sophie waving me down. She said hello with a big smile and took into her house. Been slightly dehydrated I must have down five glasses of water before we agreed a shower would be wise.

When I came out, I saw Vicent there a tall, tanned gentleman who had just come back from training for an upcoming Ironman. Then in the corner of my eye a giant bowl of pasta, where Sophie was adding all sorts, tuna, not a big fan of canned tuna but keep my mouth closed, the tuna could have been Caviar for all I cared, it was fantastic. Cheese, of course, followed this! We are in France. We spent the evening chatting about each other’s adventures before I called it a night, it had been a tough day, but it makes the suffering worthwhile when you get to meet people like Vincent and Sophie along the way.

Day 2 – Canterbury, UK to Moulle, Fra

18^th July 2017

Oliver had to leave early, so I headed into Canterbury town centre to check the place out before heading down to Dover. The town has an old medieval charm about it; I was there early, so there were not many people about, which meant it felt like I had the cathedral all to myself. I got going down to Dover through the Kent Downs, the rolling hills were great to look at from above but climbing them on my bike was not as pleasant.

I arrived in Dover with a few hours to spare, so headed up to the white cliffs to check it all out. Unfortunately, my bike could only get me so far so had to see it from a distance, but with the sun shine bright and the turquoise sea in the distance the white cliffs certainly showed their features.

I had had little time to write up about my trip, so when I finally got on the ferry, I went to a quiet spot to catch up. I had 30km to get to my stop from Dunkirk, and it felt effortless, the area was flat and the roads were good, the wind was on my back. It was a cyclist paradise.

Arriving I met Raphaelle and Alexandre who welcomed me into their newly built small house, they’re lived almost off the grid and try and grow all their vegetables; They showed me around the place before getting the one thing all cyclist crave at the end of the day, a shower. Feeling better we settled down for supper, lentils, potatoes and green beans followed by home made (of course) ice cream. We chatted about all sorts of topics until we called it a night. Today the miles had been cut from the first, and I was feeling better for it, but tomorrow I am cycling 120km to a French town called Cantin, I hope I will have the energy to get there.

Day 1 – London, UK to Canterbury, UK

17^th July 2017

I was up early to make sure everything was ready to go. I had a 10-mile bike journey from where I was staying to London Tower Bridge, the start point for this trip. The weather forecast is brilliant and that will hopefully stay throughout the trip. After a huge breakfast, I said my goodbyes to the family and I was away, from here on out I cannot spend one penny until I reach Asia.

I marked my spot at London Bridge with a photo or two and then I got going, by the time I left it was already 10.30 and the heat was picking up. The weight in my panniers was slowing me right down but it was a relief once I was free of London. My route map started to take me down some slightly rogue routes, down very narrow pedestrian paths and the gravelled road that I reckon mountain bikes might struggle with, but occasionally I was sent to rather nice remote parks and lakes.

The first day is always the toughest and today was no different the pounding heat was draining me and by 5.00pm I was struggling, I was going 5 miles then stopping for a break, there was little food in me, 1 sandwich and one Huel shake was all I had since 8.00am.

Although slightly later than planned I made it to Oliver’s house. He greeted me and showed round back to drop my bike and then knew exactly what I wanted first, a glass of water followed by a shower! His wife was reading the kids to sleep and then once I was showered and she had finished with the children we were introduced and she warmed me up some supper. She had to pop out for a friends drink but Oliver and I stayed up for a bit chatting about all sorts of topics and adventures we had been on before I called it a night. The first day had been tough but hopefully, it means a slightly more relaxed second day as I am closer to Dover now to head on over to France