Day 32 – Senj to Lukovo Šugarje

I seem to be having the same routine at the moment at today was no different, I was up and headed to the bakery for some bread. The landscape is rocky and mountainous to one side, and bright blue sea to the other. As I cycle, there are islands off the coast. I cycle till the heat picks up as rest at a small town. Usually, I order something quite simple, and this time I opted for the chips, I have to say when one orders chips/french fries, and the waitress asked if you want ketchup you don’t really expect the ketchup to be just as expensive as the chips.

Feeling slightly burnt from the lunch! I headed down to the water and relaxed under a tree, the Croatian heat during the early afternoon is something I am keen to avoid. The water here though is amazing, crystal clear and refreshing.

As the evening drew in and the heat cooled a little, I cycled on down the coastal road through the quiet Croatian villages and towns. I was thinking of sneaking into a camp site on the rocky side of the road didn’t look too comfortable, but then decided against it. However as I was thinking about a German man with his dog came up, and we got chatting, after a while, he said I could join him for a beer later on if I can find him in the camp site. The light was fading, and there was a stepped terrace with olive trees, I left my bike at the bottom and climbed up with my tent, set it up and then wandered into the camp site. I couldn’t see them so ate my supper on the beach watching the glow of the sunset slowly disappeared. As I was leaving, a teenager asks me if I wanted that drink, it was the German man’s son. We sat down and chatted over a beer, about caravan living over hotels, the son was very much in favour of the hotel life! As well as life back home. It had been nice to chat away for an hour or so; sometimes you can go the whole day without speaking much to anyone. Though once it was around ten and after cycling most of the day, I was yawning away so said goodbye and wandered up to my tent.

Day 31 – Opitaga to Senj

I was up and away when cars started to come through in the early morning; they had little care for me being there. I cycle along the coast line into Rijeka for a tea and a wander round. I thought I would cycle till too hot and then chill at the beach. I had to cycle up into the hills, and the gradient was not kind, but beautiful landscapes through the valley. I had heard only amazing things about the Croatian beaches so when I stopped at one for a break and walked onto the broken rocks where all the holiday goers where and almost cut my feet to shreds, I was wondering what was so great about the beaches here? As I was relaxing an elderly lady came and chatted to me about the area and the history of Croatia.

The heat was high again, and I took a nap before heading off along the coastal road. I had been told of the wonders of the fish here and saw a small looking restaurant on the side of the road; I was keen to have fish and chips, I settled there for a while but wanted to get going as the sunset in the distance looked incredible.

I moved on and found a gap in the hedge where I could see the view, just amazing colours, I haven’t had a good sunset on this trip yet, but this one was worth the wait. I cycled on and found a place to camp on a very rocky ground, I thought I wasn’t going to be disturbed, but then a load of fishermen walked through, I was exposed regarding the wind and the flapping on my tent didn’t help me get much sleep.

Day 30 – Prosecco to Opatija

Druso had to be away early, so breakfast was at 6.30, he teaches children sailing in Trieste and chatting to him, you can tell how passionate he about it. We sat down to a nutritious breakfast and as I was packing up Druso very kindly gave me a whole load of dried fruit, one of my favourite things on this trip. I was about 10 km short of Trieste and heading down was when I first got a glimpse of the Mediterranean. It wasn’t far to Trieste, and when I got into the centre, I went for a drink and relaxed, probably a bad idea with the heat picking up, but I wanted to look around and see the rich heritage of the city.

This was my last stop in Italy before cycling up into the hills and into Slovenia. I was only in Slovenia for about 3 hours, but you noticed the difference from the roads to the barren landscape. I stopped for water in a small town half way through, the sun was baking, and I was exhausted. I lay under a tree and munched on any snack I could find in my bag before heading on and into Croatia. The late afternoon I reached the town of Opatija and dipped my feet in the water, the place was packed and felt uncomfortable leaving my bike for some reason.

As the night draws in I settled in a restaurant for a drink and some supper, I planned to have some food, watch the football and then try and find a place to wild camp. While eating, I got chatting to a Croatian woman with a Canadian accent about the place; she gave a few tips on the area and a bit of the language. After she left, I headed into the lobby where the hotel very kindly put on the football for me. Once finished though, it was dark, and I looked on google map for what could be a dead end along the street and a place to camp. It was at the top of the hill and a car park for some business but hidden away and little chance of being disturbed.

Day 29 – Procecco

I woke to feel quite run down, I struggled out of the tent, and my leg was inching like hell, I had been bitten all over, from the back of the arm, from the legs to the backside. I pack up my things and headed into the nearest town, it was surprisinly nice, so I stopped for a cup of tea and charged my phone, with cloudy days, it is hard to charge my stuff with the solar panel.

In the early afternoon fafter cycling for about three hours I was heading bridge when I saw a few people sunbathing by this river, the water looked cystal clear and I felt like a bit of a swim. It took me a while to find the entrance and when I did I had to drag my heavy bike over thick pebbled river bed to find shade, if I had know what a struggle it would be I am not sure I would have bothered!

I found a small tree and dived stright into the water, I say dived, it was freezing so it was more of a slow moving dip! While there I noticed that the men strip of completely and swim, because the first time I saw it, it was in the distance, I thought I was seeing things but when the person in front of you strips off to swim, you wonder, am I on a nudist spot or is this normal in Italy., I took the latter.

Diego from Levico had very kindly put me in touch with one of his friends who said he would help me out. I headed into Processco in the evening where I was met by Druso, he showed me into his home and let shower while he prepared a feast for supper. His girlfriend came to join us and we chatted away about all sorts. Druso is really healthy so it felt amazing to get some really good food inside me. When the time came, I set up my tent and said my goodnights.

Day 28 – Codroipo

I awoke early and set off out of the Dolomites; I headed down the valley before rising a short mountain range. I was told to take the Sant Antonio tortal pass by Diego the other night; I wasn’t sure why he made such a song and dance about a pass, usually, they are just a point where you start going downhill rather than up. I realised once I went through the tunnel though, this was extraordinary, with each turn you had a traffic light before you went into a tunnel and around, there were about five levels. The down hill was enjoyable; I stopped at the bottom to look up as well as out into the flat landscape ahead.

I cycled on, till I reached a beautiful town to have lunch in, been a Sunday though they closed early, so had to find shelter after lunch. The heat was high, but I cycled through the afternoon heat until the evening with not much to report. I saw an industrial park and thought been Sunday there wouldn’t be much life. I rode through and saw a dirt track down some vineyards, perfect. Hidden away from the town I set up but mosquitos swarmed me. I had a bit of supper and watched the sun go down with a sea of red clouds on the horizon.

Day 27 – Lago del Mis

I left Primalona and headed up the hill; the weather was forecast to be hot. I cycled into Letre, and after I passed the town, the vast mountains of the dolomites appeared in the distance. I took the cycling route into Belluno which was a bit of mistake cause it was gravel path, which for my bike is quite tricky, but on the path, you can relax without the sound or fast pace of the moving cars.

It was hot, but Belluno was stunning, an old city with a huge mountain backdrop. I wondered around checking out the narrow stone streets before relaxing on the grass before the typical afternoon storm came in. I had planned to go down the mountains and onto the flat land, but I wanted to go into the Dolomites and check it out. I saw this Lake called Lago del Mis from somewhere so thought I would stock up on supplies and head over. The weather terrible but cleared as I got going. I reached the town in the evening and what an impressive place. You come through a tunnel and out onto the lake, the sun was just going down, so you saw the warm summer glow reflect onto the mountains and the lake.

There were signs saying no camping, so I decided to find somewhere slightly out the way. I watch the sun go down on the lake before settling into my tent for the night. The detour here had proved very worthwhile, the place it stunning.

Day 26 – Primalamo

As I left, I thought I was going to get the chance to say goodbye and thank you to the owner, but sadly it didn’t happen so wrote a note in my best Italian or should I say google translate!

I got going before managing to get on a trail with a comfortable cycling path away from the traffic.

This is where you usually meet other bike tourers, going the opposite way or in front of you. Today was no different. However, I notice a girl walking with quite a large backpack, being in Italy, very rarely do you see someone with fair hair and skin, so I assumed she must be a tourist like me. She said she was dutch and a name that went straight over my head! She was walking from Holland to Florence, why, because she liked walking. We chatted away and exchanged Instagrams to follow each other, she was only going to a town that I was going to lunch, so I felt we probably not see each other.

But after reaching the town of Primalamo and grabbing a quick bite before relaxing in the afternoon. The place was awful and with a grumpy owner. Just when I was thinking of taking off, the heavens opened, and the thunderstorms decided to make its afternoon appearance. Cycling in the rain didn’t appeal to me, I got comfortable at the bar, and then the dutch girl I met earlier came down so we had a drink and some food, shared stories and admired how terrible the owner was.

With travelling, you meet so many interesting people and the last few days have been no different. Maybe with the freedom, I have now and no timeline to get to the destination.

Day 25 – Levico Terme

After an exciting night with the thunderstorm, I was forced to head into the nearest town because my phone was out of battery, and so was my external battery. I headed into Levico town centre and walked down the main street till I saw a cafe that looked beautiful and (had a plug). I asked the owner if she spoke English which she replied, not really but the girl over there does, pointing to a lady in the corner drinking a cup of coffee. I started chatting away and then decided to sit down and join her, her name was Natalie, she had lived in Edinburgh and India before deciding to settle in Levico. We chatted away before she had to go but offered my lunch down by the lake. I thought Belluno could wait, so I accepted, then the owner said that I could have a room if I wanted it. So I walk into buying a cup of tea and end up being offered lunch and accommodation. I relaxed in the cafe till around lunch time before heading to meet Natalie. I met her son and walked down to the lake; it was sunny with a hint of clouds in the distance.

We relaxed and chatted under a tree away from the lake, it seemed busy to me, but it was quiet at the moment. It was nice to relax without having to worry about the language. I decided after Como and Annecy that I was going to go swimming. I hadn’t washed since Como, and I think I smelled. I was coming to terms with my new freedom of money and wondering how I felt about it.

Natalie and the others left while I stayed but she invited me to supper for the evening. I chilled for a while but then the most intense storm rained down on the lake for about an hour, people ran for shelter, and there was little chance of moving because of the ferocity of it. I decided to dash when the I thought there was a break. I ran up the hill to the supermarket, doing this trip I have had enormous chocolate cravings and for anything sweet, kind of freakish in them I have to admit.

I went to a cafe and waited for my room to be available, I hadn’t accepted Natalie’s request for supper as I thought I might be with the cafe owners but they showed me to my room and said see you tonight or tomorrow, whenever you like. Just when I accepted Natalie’s request for supper, the daughter came into the room and asked if I need dinner. I felt so bad rejecting the offer, but I headed out to meet Natalie who was having dinner with Diego and Steph, an Italian couple who were learning English, Diego was a ski instructor who did his seasons up in Cortina. Steph had prepared a fantastic meal which was greatly appreciated; we chatted away over food and wine hearing stories of each other’s tales before I realized that the only way to my room was through the cafe and I needed to get back before it closed. Diego said he might have a friend along the way, so we exchanged numbers and said our goodbyes. What a day from going into a cafe for a cup tea, all this had happened.

Day 24 – Mezzana to Levico Terme

The aim was to get to Trento and beyond, make up for time lost getting the bike fixed; I cycled down the river, it is obviously a popular route as the paths were full of bikes and people. The mountains were getting smaller but still great to look at and cycle through.

When I turned onto the main road and around the mountain, a view that stretched for miles. I was quite difficult staying on the right route into Trento as the main road wouldn’t allow cyclists. This, is, of course, the primary cycling touring route as I was suddenly surrounded by cyclists from all over Europe with their panniers and electric bikes, whizzing past me!

Once I got into Trento, I found a small cafe in the centre to relax in, charge my phone and keep out of the midday sun although, by the time I arrived, it was 2.30. I was making use of the end to no money and eating a croissant or two, soaking up some of the Italian cuisines. By the late afternoon, the weather had taken a turn for the worst, so I tried to head up the hill towards Belluno. It has been severely steep, so part of it was pushing it up. Out of one valley and into another. It was getting darker earlier now so suddenly I found myself searching for a spot hidden away from onlookers. I thought I might find one near a tourist castle with a field in front but upon inspection, I concluded it might be difficult, I ended up cycling with night falling fast, saw a layby and settled there under a tree as I predicted a storm coming. I set up and watched the lightning storm unfold until the rain started to trickle down on me, and I took shelter in my tent.

Day 23 – Temu to Mezzana

I woke up hoping that the bike would somehow have mended itself, had the usual camping breakfast of a Huel shake and attempted to climb. I cycled round Ponte Di Legno before starting; it started ok, then half way up, I had to unscrew the brakes and mud guard, with five km to go it had got too dangerous. The roads were narrow, and huge trucks were speeding past me, with the bike shaking and out of control as I cycled I walked the final bit, dragging the broken bike with me, I didn’t reach Passo del Tonale till around 1 pm a mere four hours to cycle 12km. It had been exhausting. I considered hitch hiking to Trento to get it fixed, but I saw a mountain bike shop who said they could help and fix the problem, after 30 mins though they said the wheel was broken and unusable. At first, he said I could use a thin road bike, but I wanted the same tyres that I had been using, therefore no a small rim. He called a friend, and he had something similar to what I needed, he gave me the price and that was when the idea of cycling from London to Asia came to an end. As I said in my Instagram post, my feelings about it will be explained at the end, but I conceded defeat and accepted the charge.

As I was chatting to one of the bike staff, a woman, Sonia, ask where I am from and then says come and have lunch with her. Embracing everything on this trip, I agreed, dropped my stuff and was led into the hotel next door. She was the owner of the Grand Hotel Miramonti. She took me into the dining room, where there was food everywhere, it was heaven after nearly 55 hours with a substantial meal. I sat at the end surrounded by eight Italian girls, and some spoke perfect English, we chatted away over a four-course dinner, this was heaven.

I had never been to the Italian Alps before, but there was something theatrical about them, similar to Chamonix, a valley leaning with beautiful knife edge mountains.

We had coffee before we said goodbye, I stayed in the hotel to check on a few things with the Wifi. In the late afternoon, my bike was fixed, I went to a cash point and for the first time in 23 days touched money and made a transaction. The idea was over, but the story now had a two part twist. I was half through this trip, how would each part compare, better or worst. Only time will tell.

I cycled down the mountain as I was camping and enjoyed my new freedom with a bowl of Italian pasta, before hiking up a hill in Mezzana to set up for the night.

Day 21 – Como to Sondrio

So at the crack of dawn, I was up to watch the sheep being herded by the sheep dogs, just for your interest there are about 12 dogs on the farm. I have been quite lazy at getting up at the crack of dawn to cycle. I am not breaking any records by making this journey at least I don’t think I am, and when I am staying with people, it is usually the only part of the day when chatting with people, so I wait till I think it is time to go.

The colours that awoke me in the morning over Lake Como were stunning, washed with an orange purple illuminated the sky. Ricardo lay breakfast for me, and one of the things I have found quite embarrassing doing this trip is how much I eat. They put out the food, I eat it all they then put out another load, and after the third, they don’t bother asking if I want more because I have eaten most of their food. After I had finished breakfast, a storm was coming in from the south, so I felt it best to get down the hill before it became an issue.

Lake Como is stunning there is no other way to describe it, you cycle through little villages that look like some ancient hideaway, full of colour and plants with a view onto the lake and mountains.

I cycled along till I reached a town and felt like a break, I had wanted to go swimming, but the weather wasn’t great, so I settle for watching from a distance. It has been difficult without money to find a place to relax in, such as a cafe or bar. I do find it a little awkward saying can I come in and not spend any money but use your electricity and tables, but they usually say yes. I was the only one inside but within a few seconds, a storm of epic proportion rain down, hail, lightning, the works. Everyone rain in and lets just the one customer not buying anything was told to move over.

I cycled out of Lake Como and back into the Alps late afternoon and the evening. I was cycling away, and as it was getting dark and I was on the hunt for a camping spot, two Italian grannies stopped me in my tracks and started chatting. Of course, I don’t speak a word of Italian, but that didn’t stop them going. They tried to communicate and eventually grabbed everyone passing by to come over to translate after around ten girls, one finally spoke English, so she was translating for me. They thought I was lost and were giving me direction as well as saying that every woman there was single!! I told them I had a map on my phone and just thought it ‘d be good to chat!

I think the communication barrier became a problem and after a while and so everyone suddenly dispersed. I cycled on but it was almost dark by the time I came to putting up my tent, I found a spot next to the river, it felt damp, but by this time I had to choose quickly.

Day 20 – Tridate to Lake Como

I was away early, and it was an easy ride into Como, although quite busy on the traffic front. The town was beautiful, old narrow colourful streets with cobbled paving. I was expecting to come over a hill to see the lake, but it was hidden away, and so I went in search of it. The warm blue sky probably exaggerated the colour of the water but the steep mountains around certainly added to the dramatic effect. There was only one word to describe this place, and that is ‘Wow’. So because a heat wave was due and cycling outside all day, the thought of cycling in the sun filled me with dread. I cycled 20 km to a hotel where I went in and asked if I could use their Wifi, they very kindly accepted and so I went outside under a tree with a table. It was the end of breakfast, and there was one remaining customer, so I chatted with her about the hotel, most people there were for a wedding and had come out from the USA.

After she had left the waiters asked me to move, so I headed into the lobby to keep cool, the afternoon flew by without much incident. Then came the moment to head into the heat and on to my host, Ricardo. I knew I had a hill to climb which I wasn’t looking forward to climbing. It starts ok and gradually got worse and worse. One village before his I was searching for a water fountain to dunk my head into I was sweating so much. When I reached the top of the mountain, I pulled into a house where women greeted me with a blank stare. I soon realised I had the wrong house, it had taken hours to climb this hill, and it was getting so steep that I couldn’t even pull it up the drive, I mean it was almost vertical, I couldn’t even believe a car could get up it. I call Ricardo, and he drove down to pick me up. We drove up the 200m vertical drive to his farmhouse. Ricardo runs a BnB in the summer while herding sheep. There was also a lovely Belguim family staying there too, whose kids were obsessed with the dogs

We were introduced to one another before I settled for a wonder and a shower. I loved the rustic feel to the whole place. The shower room so small you had to duck to get in, it was full of all these strange wonders and was a joy to be there. Ricardo made me a buckwheat pasta with potatoes and cheese, and after a few days without whole food, it was incredible, the food vanished in seconds, so he came out with the pan and poured the entire lot onto my plate.

At the end of supper, while my tea was cooling, the Belguim family and I took a walk up to the top to see the view down the valley to Lake Como. It was quite the spot, and even after they all went to bed, Ricardo, Raphael and I had a few drinks, looking down at the valley and chatted away. They both had to be up early to sheep herd, so we called it a night, they asked if I wanted to join and of course, I said yes.