Day 21 – Como to Sondrio
So at the crack of dawn, I was up to watch the sheep being herded by the sheep dogs, just for your interest there are about 12 dogs on the farm. I have been quite lazy at getting up at the crack of dawn to cycle. I am not breaking any records by making this journey at least I don’t think I am, and when I am staying with people, it is usually the only part of the day when chatting with people, so I wait till I think it is time to go.
The colours that awoke me in the morning over Lake Como were stunning, washed with an orange purple illuminated the sky. Ricardo lay breakfast for me, and one of the things I have found quite embarrassing doing this trip is how much I eat. They put out the food, I eat it all they then put out another load, and after the third, they don’t bother asking if I want more because I have eaten most of their food. After I had finished breakfast, a storm was coming in from the south, so I felt it best to get down the hill before it became an issue.
Lake Como is stunning there is no other way to describe it, you cycle through little villages that look like some ancient hideaway, full of colour and plants with a view onto the lake and mountains.
I cycled along till I reached a town and felt like a break, I had wanted to go swimming, but the weather wasn’t great, so I settle for watching from a distance. It has been difficult without money to find a place to relax in, such as a cafe or bar. I do find it a little awkward saying can I come in and not spend any money but use your electricity and tables, but they usually say yes. I was the only one inside but within a few seconds, a storm of epic proportion rain down, hail, lightning, the works. Everyone rain in and lets just the one customer not buying anything was told to move over.
I cycled out of Lake Como and back into the Alps late afternoon and the evening. I was cycling away, and as it was getting dark and I was on the hunt for a camping spot, two Italian grannies stopped me in my tracks and started chatting. Of course, I don’t speak a word of Italian, but that didn’t stop them going. They tried to communicate and eventually grabbed everyone passing by to come over to translate after around ten girls, one finally spoke English, so she was translating for me. They thought I was lost and were giving me direction as well as saying that every woman there was single!! I told them I had a map on my phone and just thought it ‘d be good to chat!
I think the communication barrier became a problem and after a while and so everyone suddenly dispersed. I cycled on but it was almost dark by the time I came to putting up my tent, I found a spot next to the river, it felt damp, but by this time I had to choose quickly.